This is a training task for making an organizer for a drill parts
i need to make an organizer for a parts like this
Parameters:
numbers of parts - 15-20;
one size from one point and different one from other;
Highly recommended:
combine these materials - plywood 3mm thiсkness, acrylic, polycarbonate, 3d printing materials - FFF (PLA, PETg)
Basic principle
Holder type
Forms
From prusaprintables to find a current good ideas
Its a good idea to use the principle of "putting it in the hole" - its better than my idea of "use as attachments" drill parts, because of less material and easier to make it. Also its a good idea to add a drawer for additional parts. I want to think about how to make a acrylic/polycarbonate cap for it: for this moment i dont know how to make it with round angles for better view. I have an idea to use a 3d printed bearing to make a movable holder, but with limitations of time much effective to realize it in next projects in my opinion. Also: for structural parts i prefer to use a PETg filament (better than PLA because of hydrolytic degradation can break it through 1+ year), holder will be in the box and if it brokes (box) - major to use it by itself. I dont like how to looks plywood but I'll think about how to use it: as a holder (because its faster than i can print it) or for the perimeter of the box
By calipers
By Rhinoceros 8
Create a drill part
Make a holder
3D Printer - Flashforge A5M
Slicing in OrcaSlicer
Material - Geeetech PETg (standart settings for Flashforge 5m 0.4 Nozzle Flashforge PETg)
Printing in action
IMG_6563.2.MOV
Got it!
The harderst part for me. I spent half a day for it
Create a box and a printed cap with attachments to holder
Holes have been added because of less material, weight and some less time of printing, design also. later, during slicing, it became obvious that it made sense only for the sake of design - for example, the time gain was only 4 minutes. The most difficult stages of the simulation were the matching of the parts with each other. the desire to make the box collapsible lost out to my desire to go to bed, so I tried to print the whole box. To adapt to printing, I also modeled drawer guides with theoretically acceptable overhangs for printing
3D Printer - Flashforge A5M
Slicing in Orcaslicer
Material - Geeetech PETg (standart settings for Flashforge 5m 0.4 Nozzle Flashforge PETg)
Printing in action
IMG_6567.MOV
Got it!
There is problem with box:
IMG_6576.MOV
Why did this happen?
Overhangs? Orcaslicer said about it
- No, because we have the same part printed on the other side and we have modified the model to better print overhangs.
Cooling?
- No, because not the whole part is in the strings
For sure problems in model. We can see this in Orcaslicer
But in Rhino its not easy to see it
i thought about different varients to solve this. Major point - try to avoid reprinting the box. For sure if you do this project for the first time you must avoid this problem and use correct model.
- Measurement different thickness of defected wall to find the difference
By chance, we managed to conduct a test for falling from a height of 1.5 meters onto a tile
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Model a path for wall (i will print it if after the drawer test, this will be necessary)
-
Drilling a box
By dental micromotor Rehne Sense A3
In action
IMG_6605.MOV
Got it
So many time i've spent to engage the pull-out mechanism...
It was also important not to increase its thickness excessively in order to save material and save free space. I had to abandon the previous complex rail system and integrate a system consisting of a small touch point in 2 planes on each side, also created cutouts in the box for the protruding parts of the former part of the box. I'll make it easier next time. The holes are made to reduce printing time, save material and reduce the weight of the box itself in order to reduce the load on the sliding elements of the box and the box itself
Unfortunately, this method led to the appearance of overhanging elements that would require either support during 3D printing and subsequent post-processing, as well as could worsen the sliding of the drawer. I managed to adapt the internal cavities for the rails to 3D printing, there is no upper sliding part, so with a heavy heart I decided to divide the model into 2 parts and glue it later. if it does not withstand the load, I have hope that the box will still function
3D Printer - Flashforge A5M
SLicing by Orcaslicer
Material - Geeetech PETg (standart settings for Flashforge 5m 0.4 Nozzle Flashforge PETg)
In action
IMG_6610.MOV
Got it
Drawer in action
IMG_6626.MOV
Problems
PETg comes off the table, despite the fact that I use a lot of glue. I also noticed that the box itself is also deformed at the corners, especially on the side where the printing was unsuccessful due to a defect in the model - I probably should think about uniform cooling during printing or better isolate the printer from ventilation with an open window. But may be this is a reason why it works together (box and drawer) - because both are deformed. So, this is not a bug, but a feature
3D Printer - Flashforge A5M
SLicing by Orcaslicer cap for a box
Material - Geeetech PETg (standart settings for Flashforge 5m 0.4 Nozzle Flashforge PETg)
In action
IMG_6627.MOV
Got it
All together
Creating a path to repair a box
when I saw that the box was working, I decided that instead of the upper part of the drawer mount, it was worth printing the missing part of the inner wall of the box with a rail
but when I loaded the model into the slicer, I saw the overhanging elements and changed it so that it was adapted to 3D printing
3D Printer - Flashforge A5M
SLicing by Orcaslicer
Material - Geeetech PETg (standart settings for Flashforge 5m 0.4 Nozzle Flashforge PETg)
Printing
IMG_6630.MOV
Got it
Problems with lenght. Perhaps I will solve this with the help of hand tools.
Let's mark where you need to make a cut
A universal battery cutter is used for trimming
In action
IMG_6653.1.MOV
Got it
We will glue the part to the box using cyanoacrylate glue
Got it.
it does not look perfect, there is also a gap between the rail at the box itself and the added part, but this does not affect the function. Also, the part will be hidden inside the box and invisible to an outside observer.
Test drive
IMG_6659.MOV
In action
IMG_6648.MOV
Acrylic
I wanted to make the outer walls of the box out of plywood, but decided that acrylic would look nicer with green PETG. I had the idea to cut out a single piece with live loops, but the question arose as to how accurately the corners would be able to be made. so it was decided to divide into 2 parts and bend.
Creating in CorelDraw with a helps from one of the teachers from FabLab (Thank you, Alexander!)
Laser cut
IMG_6683.MOV
It was decided to bend the obtained parts from acrylic using a homemade device for bending acrylic, which was in FabLab. By heating the metal thread by convection, the acrylic is heated
you should wait until a heating line appears on the top surface of the acrylic, without allowing it to overheat, which will be noticeable by the fact that the part hanging in the air begins to tilt towards the table. then I applied the heated acrylic to the PETg box, carefully bent it and held it for a while to maintain its shape
Got it
then remove the film from the inside of the acrylic before gluing the acrylic to the box with cyanoacrylate glue
we glue it and look at the result.
After this, the PETg box parts can be glued together using cyanoacrylate adhesive. To prevent accidental gluing, I removed the drawer. The protruding parts of the holder itself (the uppermost section), which fit into the lid’s slots like a sieve, were left unglued. This allows time for settling (including shrinkage) and reduces the risk of incorrect positioning. The protective film remains on the outer surface for now.
Overall On the back of the box the acrylic parts could not be connected. Tomorrow I will try to solve this problem. to avoid this in the future, you can not only cut out an acrylic part on a laser machine before bending, but also engrave the line of the future bend for accuracy.
Initially, I planned to add acrylic, because in the conditions of our task it was strongly recommended to use different materials, but the resulting result not only looks cool, but also gives rigidity to the walls made of PETg, which has elasticity
I wanted to close the gap between the acrylic walls on the back of the box
we measure it with a caliper
an important task is to compensate for the uneven contour of the mapping, which arose due to PETg shrinkage during 3d printing
the first model was unsuccessful, but I noticed it only after trimming it. the error was at the stage of removing unnecessary lines after modeling in rhinoceros
then I took into account the errors and carefully corrected the cropping contour in rhinoceros
in action
IMG_6710.MOV
got it
during the fitting, a new problem was discovered: on the left side, the part fit well into the grooves, but on the right (from the one where the greatest slope was) it did not.
I decided to adjust the right side of the part using a needle file, but due to lack of time I did not have time to do it completely
in order for this part to fall into place well, I had to use a dental micromotor
it didn't work out very smoothly, but I've already spent too much time on the project to perfect such details
I glued it with cyanoacrylate glue. the difference in the surfaces is because I have already removed the film from this part, but not from those on the sides of the box
The slot in the drawer was modeled to put a pen with an inscription there. there will also be a qr code with a link to this project so that you can view it from a user who may have problems. the qr will be modeled in CorelDRAW, in Rhino I inserted it for visualization
Important notes
since the task of uploading a qr code for laser cutting may be relevant for other users, I created a separate project and described there in a short form the solution to this problem.
the outline for cutting out the sign with text for the drawer was modeled in the rhinoceros program, two-color acrylic was chosen as the material - gold surface and black backing
qr code which was modeled in coreldraw program was imported for cutting. also at this stage, the width of the arrow and the font of the inscriptions at the top and bottom were increased
in action
IMG_6721.MOV
Got it
Unfortunately, the QR code turned out to be unreadable for my iPhone’s camera, and when I took a photo of it and moved it to the gallery, it was not recognized by the system. Most likely this happened due to the small size of the code in combination with the high laser power during engraving. I'll try to either reduce the laser power to re-engrave this part, or find a way to generate a qr code with larger elements
in an attempt to solve this problem, I tried to cut out a new qr code with slightly different settings
laser cut in action
IMG_7103.MOV
Unfortunately, the qr code still turned out to be unreadable. for more than an hour, I tried to find a service that would help me create code from larger parts, but failed. for this reason, it was decided to use a text link
editing in CorelDraw
laser cut in action
IMG_7107.MOV
goi it
despite the deformed edge of the groove on top, due to the elasticity of the material, it must be functional
Since I initially planned to cut out a sign with text entirely from a thick sheet of acrylic and did not know in advance what thickness options were available in FAbLab, I made a fairly wide groove in the box with a margin that could be filled using a 3D printed part printer
this insert had to be modeled in two parts, since one was supposed to act as support for the sign, and the other to give it rigidity
creating in RhinoCeros
in order to add variety to the materials, I wanted to print these details from PLA
Slicing in Orcaslicer
3d printer - Flashforge A5m, filament - High Speed PLA eSun, standart settings for 0.4 nozzle for Flashforge PLA
unfortunately, I had several unsuccessful attempts to print from this material
I decided to use a different material: PETG from GEEETECH with the same settings that I used to print other parts of the box
Slicing in Orcaslicer
in order to avoid the deformation that was with PETG, from which the rest of the box was printed, my colleague advised to rinse the printing table well. I also added a skirt to avoid the corners of the model coming off.
I used wire cutters to cut off the printed skirt pieces. I polished the remaining uneven surface from the top edge using a dental machine
the result of fitting an acrylic plate with text to the holder
to glue the parts to each other, I used cyanoacrylate glue
the result of gluing. unfortunately, the acrylic plate was somewhat crookedly glued from one edge, but this did not prevent it from being fixed to the drawer
from inside
the way to apply plywood in this project is to make an additional overlay on the top of the holder. a possible additional option would be a greater degree of detail fixation
Creating a model in Rhinoceros by extract surface command and saving this in .dxf for CorelDraw and adapting for laser cut
after removing the extra lines, the markup color was replaced with red, which in our settings corresponds to the clipping, and black corresponds to the grading
in action
IMG_6729.MOV
got it
one side of the plywood showed visual signs of carbon deposits that had occurred during laser cutting. I turned the part over to the cleaner side and glued it to the top surface of the holder using cyanoacrylate glue
got it. In this photo you can see that the edge of the plywood on the left protrudes slightly above the surface of the petg holder. Considering that the same model was used for modeling, this reason may be related to petg shrinkage during large-scale printing of the part. visually the holes match, so I don’t think this will affect its functionality.
in this photo, a part of plywood (3 mm thick) glued to the holder is visible, and a sign with text and qr code made of two-tone acrylic is also embedded, which lies at an angle, since I have not yet made a holder for it from PETg, which should give thickness to the plate and increase its strength, acting as a handle. However, the final look of my project is almost ready
since the description of the project turned out to be impressive enough not to load it, and also for convenience, I created a separate repository for the list of commands in rhinoceros that I used to create this project
all that remains is to remove the protective film from the acrylic walls, which I will do during the presentation of the project in the classroom
IMG_7129.MOV
in action
IMG_7128.MOV
Since I still didn’t want to abandon the idea with the QR code, I decided to add it to the inside surface of the drawer. for this I used a thermal printer Niimbot b21
Result
